This Wednesday, August 13th, we welcomed sixteen tons of Syrah into our cellar, marking the beginning of the 2014 harvest. These bins were from Estrella Farms, in the warm heartland of the Paso Robles AVA, and will form the juicy core of our Patelin de Tablas. The fruit looked terrific, and the numbers were textbook: 23.5° Brix and 3.39pH.
The next day, we got four more tons of Estrella syrah and our first white: a little over seven tons of Grenache Blanc from Coyote Moon Vineyard, on a vineyard that we had grafted over to Grenache Blanc specifically for the Patelin Blanc up near the town of San Miguel. This fruit looked great too, with intense flavors, modest sugar levels and great acidity: 21° Brix and 3.38 pH.
The two locations have in common that they are from areas of the AVA that are on the warmer side. We think we're still a week away from harvesting anything off of our estate vineyard. For our planning in the cellar, it's great that we're seeing this slug of fruit before anything else. The roughly 30 tons of fruit is about 20% of what we're expecting for our Patelin, and to have it already safely put away before we're also dealing with the much more complicated harvest off our estate is a gift. It also allows us to break in our wooden upright tanks and start building the population of native yeasts in our cellar.
This mid-August beginning feels early, but it's not unprecedented. Yes, August 13th is the earliest that we've ever had fruit in the cellar, but it's only one day earlier than 1997, when the lot of estate Syrah that we harvested on August 14th was the first fruit we crushed in our newly-built winery. Given that the fruit we've welcomed so far this year comes from warmer parts of Paso, I'm not sure even that we'll break our modern record for our earliest picking off our estate, August 23rd in 2004.
More than the calendar date when we start harvesting, what we look at as important is the length of the ripening cycle, and of course the balance and intensity of the fruit. Because we saw such an early budbreak this year (two and a half weeks earlier than average) an estate harvest that begins ten days earlier than average, as this one appears poised to, actually gives us hang time about a week longer than normal. And the fruit conditions that we're seeing so far bear this out: the fruit is intensely colored and perfumed, with beautiful deep flavors and acids exactly where we'd like to see them.
So, it's early yet. But we couldn't ask for a better beginning.