Late last week, we welcomed our first major picks of Roussanne and Mourvedre into the cellar.
Where we are, one week into October, is remarkably similar to where we'd expect to be, if we were predicting at the beginning of the year. We're done with early grapes like Viognier, Vermentino, Syrah, Marsanne, and Grenache Blanc. We're mostly done with what we consider mid-harvest grapes like Grenache and Tannat. And we're just getting into our late grapes, Mourvedre, Roussanne, and Counoise. Given that we're comparatively heavily planted in these late grapes, we still have more fruit out than many of our neighbors. Still, we expect to be harvesting pretty steadily for the next two weeks, and to be done before the end of the month. If this seems late, it's likely a matter of perspective, because most of our recent years have been early. While 2013, 2014, and 2016 were all done by mid-October, our average finish date of harvest this millennium has been October 29th.
With the first complete blocks harvested, we've been able to get the animals back into the vineyard. Right now, they're in the head-trained vines on our Scruffy Hill block, visible from Vineyard Drive if you're coming in from the south:
Although we're where we'd expect to be in the harvest sequence, it hasn't always been smooth getting here. Harvest began with a significant heat wave that sent temperatures soaring over 102°F nine days in a row. We then got nearly three weeks of temperatures more than 5°F cooler than normal. In the last two weeks, temperatures have been more or less normal for the season, without any noteworthy heat waves, and with only one day significantly cooler than normal, a bizarrely chilly October 3rd where the sun didn't break through the fog until noon and the day topped out at 64°F:
For the month of September, we had 11 days warmer than seasonal averages, and 19 days cooler than average. Even with the heat wave that began the month, our average high was 86.3°F, two degrees cooler than average. These cooler days allowed the vines to recover from the stress of their early-season heat wave, and allowed the cellar to free up tanks and get ready for the next push. A graph of the harvest by week shows the ebb and flow. Normally, you'd expect a sort of bell curve, with thin tails at the beginning and end and the busiest weeks in the middle. Not this year:
In terms of yields, with a significant number of grapes done, things are coming into focus. It looks like yields are up from 2016, and a bit above average for the first time since 2012. The varieties we've finished harvesting are up an average of 32.9%, with the most noteworthy recovery from Marsanne, whose yields had been so depressed by the five years of drought that we were getting less than one ton per acre last year:
|Grape||2017 Yields (tons)||2016 Yields (tons)||% Change vs. 2016|
|Total so Far||234.2||176.2||+32.9%|
Even with the higher yields, sugars are up a bit this year, which is a sign of the health of the vines. Thank you, rainy winter! The growing season, the yields, and the character and numbers of the grapes at harvest remind us most, so far at least, of 2005: also the first wet year after a string of dry years, with a long growing season and a relatively cool harvest period. We aren't likely to go as late as we did that year -- November 7th -- but if we get a similarly robust vintage, we'll be happy.
Meanwhile, we'll enjoy the last couple of weeks of grapes on the vines. By the end of the month, we'll have to wait another year for views like this: