Why are Rhone white grapes like Picpoul and Grenache Blanc so different in California?

Most grapes have a pretty well defined character. If you read the literature about Cabernet Sauvignon, it will give you a good sense of what it's going to taste like whether the bottle you're tasting is from Bordeaux, or Chile, or Sonoma. Same with Pinot Noir, whether you're tasting from Santa Rita Hills, the Willamette Valley, or Volnay. This isn't to say there aren't regional signatures or a stylistic range depending on the region's specific soils and climate, or the producer's preference for ripeness, oak, or winemaking techniques, but there's still a pretty recognizable through-line irrespective of region. 

So what the heck is going on with a grape like Grenache Blanc? If you read the older literature of what it tastes like from France or Spain, it sounds like an entirely different grape than we know. Take the description of Grenache Blanc in Jancis Robinson's "Guide to Wine Grapes" from 1996:

"...the variety is much planted in Roussillon, where it produces fat, soft white table wines. It need not necessarily be consigned to the blending vat, however, and since the early 1990s, flattering, soft, supple, almost blowsy varietal versions have been marketed."

Is this the same Grenache Blanc that we've found to achieve ripeness at high acids and produce wines with exceptional tension, minerality, and high-toned fruit? It sure doesn't seem like it. How about Picpoul? Here's what Jancis has to say in the same reference:

"It can produce usefully crisp blending material in the Languedoc"

Talk about damning with faint praise. Here at Tablas Creek, and more generally in California's Central Coast, both grapes come with a remarkable balance of medium-to-full body, bright acids, and crystalline fruit. They have different flavors, with Grenache Blanc leaning more toward petrichor minerality and green apple/white grapefruit fruit, while Picpoul Blanc is more tropical, with a saline sea spray mineral character that reinforces its reputation as the Rhone's preeminent oyster wine, but in both cases what we're seeing here is nearly unrecognizable from these European descriptions. Now I will admit that I am stacking the deck a little by looking at older references. In more recent editions, writers like Jancis have started to paint more nuanced portraits, often with a caveat explaining that the grapes show differently in California. So, what do I think is going on? I'd attribute what we're seeing to some combination of four factors:

The specifics of the California climate

When we purchased our property in Paso Robles back in 1989 we thought we'd found a perfect match for the climate of Chateauneuf du Pape. It turned out we had chosen a place that was a bit cooler overall. The mid-summer days are hotter here, yes, but the nights are colder, and in fact more colder than the days are hotter. For example, Monday of this week was the beginning of the little heat wave that we've had. The day topped out at 98.0°F. But the coolest point of the morning was a chilly 48.2°F. That's a swing of 50°F! And it's not just about the low during the night. Those chilly nights mean that the mornings are cool quite late. At 11am it was just 72.8°F, and it only hit 90°F at 3pm. Four hours later, it was back down in the 80s. It's important to remember that it's not just the high temperatures but the duration of the heat (and cool) that matters to grapevines as they ripen their fruit.  

The net result of these cooler average temperatures mean that we pick the same grapes on average about 10 days later than they do at Beaucastel, with slightly lower sugars and somewhat higher acids. If you ask the grapevines whether it's cooler or warmer, they will tell you unequivocally that it's cooler, most years, in Paso Robles than it is in Chateauneuf du Pape. What's more, the differences in soils further differentiate the two terroirs. In Chateauneuf, the rounded river stones known as galets serve to absorb the daytime sun and warmth and radiate it back to the vines in the nights. That was critical in earlier eras because it allowed the region's vineyards to ripen late-ripening grapes like Mourvedre and Roussanne before the rainy season got going in earnest in late October. In Paso Robles we have no such stones at the surface, and our move toward regenerative farming has meant that we're doing everything we can to avoid bare ground and instead focusing on having the sun hit plant material that can absorb it for photosynthesis while guarding moisture and keeping the soils below cooler.

Finally, there is good evidence that calcareous soils preserve acidity in grapes because the omnipresence of calcium ions tends to displace potassium, which grapevines use to break down acids in the ripening process. I dove into that in detail in a blog from 2020. While both Chateauneuf-du-Pape and west Paso Robles have calcareous sub-soils (it's a main reason why we chose to found what would become Tablas Creek here) those soils are closer to the surface here, on average, than they are in the Rhone. I had the opportunity recently to dive into (almost literally) our soils in a recent explainer video posted to Instagram:

Taken together, all these climate and soil factors tend to preserve acidity in wines as they ripen. That allows us to give grapevines longer hang times, which tends to produce wines with more texture and more opportunity to develop well-delineated fruit, which is in turn highlighted by the acids. 

An attention to yields

We're convinced that grapes like Picpoul and (to a lesser extent, Grenache Blanc) are victims of a vicious circle in France. Because they're not much respected and don't command a high price on the market, they tend to be only viable economically if they're cropped heavily. So, they're usually overcropped and then earmarked for quick fermentations and inexpensive bottles, which reinforces that they're of low value. Here in California, we crop them modestly and give them the attention in the cellar they deserve. 

Take Picpoul de Pinet. A quick look on Wine Searcher produces 131 results. Of those, just 3 are listed for more than $20. Several are below $10. For that price, the wine needs to be grown and made, bottled, shipped to America, imported (and marked up), sold to a distributor (and marked up again), and finally sold to a retailer (and marked up a third time). The three markups typically double, at least, the price that the producer receives. Imagine how cheap the grapes have to be to sustain a wine at this price! One of the ways that you can keep grape cost low is to produce more tons per acre. To protect against overproduction, the laws that govern the Picpoul de Pinet AOC specify a maximum number of kilograms per hectare (10,000, or about 4.5 tons per acre) as well as a maximum yield of juice (66 hectoliters per hectare, which works out similarly). And side note: it's amazing to me that at those yields and those prices a grapegrower can earn a living.

Picpoul vine from below
A picpoul vine, from below


Compare that, though, to the Picpoul yields here at Tablas Creek. Even if we wanted to increase our yields, the dry climate and often punishing summer heat mean that we've never averaged even 4 tons per acre. Over the last 20 years, our average has been 3.07. That inherently gives you more concentration, while the longer hang time from the cooler climate allows you greater intensity of fruit. Add while the AOC limits are just that -- limits -- the low prices that the wines from a grape like Picpoul have historically commanded has meant that the only way to make a living there is to get as close to those limits as you can.

More focus on whites and the modern fermentation techniques to match

While Picpoul has had the advantage of a regional AOC that mandates its use, Grenache Blanc has not. Instead, it's mostly planted in places where red wines are dominant. Take Cotes du Rhone. Despite significant increases since 2015, white wines only account for 11% of the production there. In Chateauneuf du Pape, as of 2009, the total was even lower: just 7% of acreage was dedicated to whites, and while the most-planted of these was Grenache Blanc, it only accounted for 2.5% of the appellation's total. 

With whites making up such a small part of most wineries' production, it's probably not surprising that in many cases there was not the incentive to invest in the technology -- specifically stainless steel and temperature control -- that we take for granted when making white wines here in California. What's more, picking crews were typically hired to pick at the time the Grenache Noir (which makes up roughly 60% of Cotes du Rhone's acreage and 70% of that in Chateauneuf-du-Pape) was ripe. In our experience, Grenache Blanc is at its best picked about 2 weeks before Grenache Noir. If you're picking Grenache Blanc at the time you've hired your picking crew to pick Grenache, it likely started off a little overripe. If you ferment it in the same concrete tanks and age it in the same old neutral oak barrels that are traditional for the reds from the region, you're likely going to further squander whatever brightness you had when you picked.

Grenache Blanc cluster August 2019
Two Grenache Blanc clusters, nearly ripe in August

It's important to note that these two things are changing fast in France now. Many more Rhone producers are focusing on whites, and the old-fashioned cellars without temperature control are much rarer than they were. We've know from our conversations with the Perrins and other Chateauneuf-du-Pape producers that there is a renewed surge of interest in particularly the higher-acid white grapes like Clairette Blanche and Bourboulenc. But the formative era when many of these mostly-British writers were cataloguing the white wines of the Rhone was one in which whites were more likely to be an afterthought.  

The direct-to-consumer customer marketplace

Finally, what a luxury it is having direct contact with the customers who we hope to share our examples of these lesser-known grapes with. We can write stories about them on our blog (for example, see here, here, here, and here). We can share on-the-spot video of visits to the vineyard blocks, as we did in this YouTube short video series. We can announce their release to our mailing list and tell the story of how the wines are made and why people should care.

The direct contact with our customers means that we are not subject to the game of telephone that selling wine in wholesale inevitably becomes. For our wholesale sales, we tell our national marketing agent, who tells their distributor brand managers, who hopefully tell their sales team, who tell the buyers at the retailers and restaurants they call on. It's rare that the message stays consistent through all those links. The challenges involved are why there is typically so much less diversity on display on the shelves at grocery stores and at box retail than there is when you visit a winery. Most larger retailers don't have the time or the staff to talk customers through things they don't know, and so focus on large selections of the major categories.

Economies of scale come into play here too. If we make, say, 150 cases of an obscure white grape, how exactly is that supposed to be divided up among our 50 distributors. Should we give North Carolina, which represents 1.5% of our national sales this year, 2 cases? Or Connecticut, which represents 0.3%, 5 bottles? In either case, that wine will sit orphaned on a distributor's shelves with quantities so low that no sales rep will even pull a sample bottle. Multiply that out by a dozen different small-production wines each year, and thousands of wineries in the book of the average wholesaler, and you start to get a sense of the scope of the challenge.

Instead, we just sidestep the whole issue and reach out directly to the list of people who have over the years shared their contact information with us. We'll often sell out a small-production white in a few weeks after sending out an email. That allows us the confidence to plant it, and the better margins that we get from our direct sales allow us the resources to invest in its import, propagation, planting, and production.

Would we have trouble marketing a $40 bottle of Tablas Creek Picpoul in the national (or international) marketplace? Maybe. It's hard -- though not impossible, if you look at our box wine program -- swimming upstream against the current of what the marketplace thinks a particular grape "should" sell for. But does that mean that a bottle of Regenerative Organic Certified Picpoul Blanc or Grenache Blanc, made with love by the Tablas Creek team from grapevines imported from France, electric with acid and yet with plenty of fruit, shouldn't cost $40? I would argue that they should, and invite you to put one up against a similarly priced example of a more exalted white grape (say a Premier Cru Chablis, or a dry Alsacian Riesling). I think you'll find it will shine.

Picpoul and GB 2023 bottles

And maybe it will put the idea to bed that these grapes are fat, soft, and should be consigned to the blending vat.


Paso Robles gets it right, eventually, on downtown parking

In early May, the Paso Robles City Council voted 5-0 to repeal its five-year-old parking ordinance and restore free parking to downtown. This decision came after several false starts, legal challenges, and a petition drive opposing the parking plan that eventually gathered an estimated 2,400 signatures. And it came over the opposition of the town's Mayor, who commented to the San Luis Obispo Tribune, “It appears this is how a small group of Roblans with little business sense wants to manage downtown public parking for their own gain or in reality, loss” and “I am absolutely done with parking.”

Downtown Paso Robles Parking

How did we get to this bruising debate? And why did it take so long to come to a conclusion that was overwhelmingly supported by both residents and visitors? The good news is that, in the end, I think they came to the right decision. As for why it became such a saga and why it took so long to come back to where things were at the beginning, that's for me a fascinating story that boils down to the intersection of local politics and market economics. The effort to understand what happened gave me a good chance to dust off my old economics degree, as it pitted two different core theories of economic behavior against each other. 

Back in 2019, in response to the frustrations of some downtown merchants, the city of Paso Robles implemented a kiosk parking system for the eight square blocks immediately around our downtown park. These business owners were worried that their customers were being displaced by employees parking all day in prime downtown spots. So, between 10th Street and 14th Street, and between Spring Street and Pine Street, the city installed 35 kiosks where you could register your license plate for two hours of free parking, or you could pay by the hour for more. The goal was to incentivize employees to park a little further away from the most in-demand parking spots, leaving those spots open for customers. The kiosks were active weekdays during business hours (9am - 6pm). This is a classic implementation of the economic Theory of Price. One of that theory's core postulates is that the optimal market price is the point at which the total number of items available can be reasonably consumed by potential customers. In this case, the marketable good is parking. And the potential customers are parkers. When the price of that parking is zero, it encourages overconsumption, in the form of the employees of downtown business choosing to take up prime spots all day and displacing those stores' potential customers. In theory, raising the price should reduce the demand for those parking spots, meaning that enough of the spots should be open when a customer is looking that they don't have to circle endlessly or park several blocks away. The city quoted a goal of having 85% of the spots filled at peak times.    

From the beginning there was unhappiness with the plan. The kiosks and the downloadable app that paired with them were clunky; the WayToPark app has a 3.2/5 star rating on the App Store, and the fact that there are only 17 reviews is an indicator of how few places used it. It became routine to see worried-looking visitors hurrying from their cars to the kiosks to make sure they figured out what they needed to do before they got ticketed. Older residents filled comment sections of local newspapers saying they just wouldn't go downtown. And the kiosks weren't making enough money to pay for their enforcement, let alone repay the cost of putting them in. In 2021, the City Council expanded the active hours to include weekends and weeknights until 8pm after reporting that the kiosks generated only $45,000 in parking fees during the first 18 months the parking ordinance was in effect, and that the loan balance for the program's research, purchase, and installation was nearly $600,000. To help enforce the parking, it also authorized three part-time enforcement officers (estimated annual cost: around $60,000) to supplement the parking supervisor (annual salary: around $80,000).

Fast forward another two years. By late 2023, significant resistance to the parking plan had grown among residents. And I get it! I'm tech-savvy, and I understand the town of Paso Robles and could usually find a free place to park. I don't think I ever paid for parking, and never got a ticket (though I did have to argue my way out of one when I parked in a loading zone, hazards on, to pick up some take-out). But I still thought it was a mistake. In September of 2023 I sent a note to some community leaders pointing out that we were in a competitive market for tourist visitors, and any friction created by the parking system put us at a disadvantage. I had noted in trips in the fall of 2023 that other attractive California tourist destinations had a simple 2-hour parking limit. The relevant piece of my note was:

I think that the parking app/regulation we have in Paso is a mistake, and puts us at a disadvantage compared to other wine destinations. As I've been traveling around California, I've noticed that towns like Healdsburg, and Sonoma, and Carmel all have a simple 2-hour parking limit in their downtowns. No app to download. No need to text. No payment required. Just move your car after two hours. I don't know the finances of what we have, but I'm guessing it doesn't bring in enough money to pay for itself. And if it leaves a slightly frustrated feeling in visitors' minds as they try to navigate it, that's going to color their experience of visiting Paso overall and make it (by I'm sure a very small margin) less likely for them to want to come back. In this environment where every guest is valuable and we know everyone is worried about traffic, I think we need to be advocating for town policies that benefit us. If I've noticed recently how much easier it is in other places, I'm sure I'm not the only one.

I evidently wasn't the only one expressing my opinion. The City Council had already responded to constituent feedback by creating an ad hoc committee to investigate parking options, which held several sessions soliciting community input. They presented their recommendations to the City Council at a meeting on November 21st. Perhaps not surprisingly, the recommendations that they said had universal support all carved exceptions out from the parking requirements, including free parking on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, more free parking permits for local seniors, free parking in the city lot behind City Hall and the Paso Robles Library, and better signage. After the head of the committee presented the committee's recommendations, the City Council opened the floor to public comment. One commenter after another gave impassioned pleas to urged the city to do away with paid parking in favor of something simpler and friendlier to visitors and locals alike. Against at least 20 comments opposed to the parking plan, there was just one in support of it.

After the commenters were done, the City Council members weighed in. Everyone agreed that the current system was nearly universally unpopular. And yet the decision that emerged was somehow even more onerous. New City Councilmember Sharon Roden asserted that the parking plan didn't satisfy anyone because it was too easily manipulated, that there was a convoluted system in place that people had to navigate which still didn't bring in enough money to cover its costs. She proposed a $2/hour parking charge from minute one. Her plan, she said, would actually achieve the goal of forcing people to think hard about how much they valued downtown parking spots, and would have the additional benefit of raising over $1.1 million dollars to fund the program and pay for another project, adding better lights downtown. Although some council members expressed doubts -- I was impressed, particularly, by Councilmember Fred Strong's reconsideration of his support for paid parking after listening to his constituents -- the Council decided to implement her plan, though at only $1 per hour rather than $2. You could hear audible gasps from the audience.

From an economic standpoint, she wasn't wrong. Putting a value on a scarce commodity encourages its responsible use. But she (and the majority of the Paso Robles City Council) had fallen victim to another classic economic theory: the sunk cost trap. People, businesses, and governments have psychological biases toward evaluating the future value of a project in part through the past costs that have been invested in it. It doesn't matter if those costs can't be recovered. The fact that they were spent means that there is extra incentive to continue forward to justify the past expenditures. In this case, the more than half a million dollars that the city was carrying on its balance sheet that was earmarked as due from the downtown parking program encouraged the city councilors to try to take actions that would repay those costs, even if those actions did not help their constituents.

To me, it was clear that this latest change would result in more harm to their constituents. If even the relatively cost-free system that was in place tended to discourage people from going downtown, adding costs while requiring the use of the same clunky app and kiosks couldn't improve people's experience. We (the city of Paso Robles) are in a competitive market for out-of-town tourists, and compared to the ease of parking in a comparable destination like Sonoma, or Carmel, or Healdsburg, the hassle of dealing with the kiosks, and the potential for a ticket, would act in a small way to color visitors' impressions of their experiences. If even 1% of visitors left with a less-happy memory of their visit here, we had lost their future business. The community had lost their referrals. And the town had lost their future tax revenue. 

If City Council members were in doubt of the community's viewpoint, that doubt was dispelled with the outpouring of glee from residents and businesses that greeted the town's announcement in February that all parking fees would be suspended due to the receipt of a cease and desist letter from a community member that pointed out that the proposal to overhaul the parking system wasn't on the published agenda of the November meeting, and therefore the decision violated the Brown Act. The parking free-for-all was originally supposed to be temporary, but after hearing from business owners at the May meeting that their traffic improved during the free parking period, and receiving the petition signed by 2,400 residents asking them to restore free parking, the city council voted to end it permanently. And now the 35 kiosks are for sale. If you want to track the former footprint of these kiosks, their locations are individually numbered around the downtown square:

Former Parking Kiosk 9

Even though I agree with the City Council's decision to restore free parking, it's hard to be happy about the process it took to get here. The city of Paso Robles paid a consultant hundreds of thousands of dollars to decide on a system that cost hundreds of thousands of dollars more. It hired multiple people to enforce a system that never covered its expenses, let alone recouped its initial investment. The debate that resulted pitted business owners against each other and many locals against the out-of-town customers who drive so much of our local economy. The system's clunkiness likely resulted in some degree of guests feeling like a visit to downtown Paso Robles was cumbersome, while a small number of guests likely have an acutely unpleasant memory of a parking ticket. And all because some business owners complained that employees were taking up too many prime parking spots -- and yet couldn't make the case to those employees that they needed to park elsewhere.

As much as I've enjoyed just pulling into a downtown parking spot over the last six months -- and I feel compelled to point out that I haven't once had to park more than a block away from my destination -- it's worth wondering if we're just going to find ourselves back in the same situation the original parking system was designed to address. It seems possible. Maybe businesses will do a better job of instructing their employees where to park. But I'm hopeful that the experience of sourcing, implementing, staffing, and ultimately decommissioning this kiosk-based system would encourage the city to take a different approach should they revisit the issue. If they do, I hope they look to the neighboring communities that I've mentioned a few times in this post, and look to a simple two-hour parking limit. If you overstay your limit, you are subject to a ticket. It doesn't seem like a system like this would require a lot of enforcement, or much in the way of implementation cost.

While it may not be an economic theory, there is a final principle that I think could shed some light on where things went wrong. That principle is Occam's Razor, which states that when presented with multiple solutions to (or explanations for) a problem, the simplest tends to be the best. In this case, a simpler solution seems like it should have been tried before the plan that was adopted. Meanwhile, take a visit to downtown Paso Robles. Spend that minute you saved not having to enter your parking info enjoying the beautiful downtown park. And if anyone you know is in the market for a used parking kiosk, I know where they can find one.


Harvest 2024 ramps to full speed, then cools down. Our vines (and our people) appreciate the respite.

On Monday night, I was snuggling under a blanket reading in our living room when I realized that it smelled like snow. No, it was never actually going to snow. Snow happens only once every few years in Paso Robles, and never in September. But that didn't change the fact that after a two month stretch that has ranged from warm to hot, the air felt different. It was already down in the 40s just after 10pm, and the crisp, electric air and the north wind would have sent me, if it were April, to check on our frost protection. In the end, it didn't come all that close to freezing. At my house it bottomed out at 38.7F, and at the vineyard it was a couple of degrees warmer. But that night, and the chilly, breezy day that followed and topped out only at 67.4F, definitely felt like a harbinger of the changing seasons. You can see from the chart below how different the last week has been compared to the beginning of September: 

Temperatures 2024 vs Average August and September

As for the Tablas Creek harvest, this cooldown is giving the team a chance to catch their breaths after a rapid escalation of harvest. The first couple of weeks started slow, as we brought in 44.8 tons across those two weeks. The next week was a doozy. We brought in over 115 tons including one lot each of Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, and Vermentino, four lots of Grenache Blanc, seven lots of Grenache, ten lots of Syrah, and two co-harvested lots. Nineteen of these lots came off the estate, nine will go into Patelin, Patelin Blanc or Patelin Rosé, and one will become our newest Lignée de Tablas wine: a white blend from the Fenaughty vineyard in the Sierra foothills. The harvest chalkboard is filling up:

Chalkboard September 18th 2024

A few scenes from around the cellar will help give you a sense of things. First, the bins sitting on our crushpad, in this case Mourvedre (left) and Grenache (right):

Bins on the crushpad
Next, the daily chart that keeps track of our cap management for all our fermenting reds (notice the division into "pump over", "pulse air", and "punch down") as well as what's being received and pressed that day:

Daily cellar chart

I'm guessing you're likely less familiar with what "pulse air" is than you are with pump over or punch down. For us, it's an important part of our program, and a way to keep the fermenting reds mixed without extracting harsher tannins. You need to do this mixing daily, at least, because the carbon dioxide bubbles that form during fermentation lift the berries to the surface, forming a "cap" or cake of mostly-whole berries at the top of a deeper pool of fermenting juice. You want the juice in contact with the berries because that's how you get the flavor extraction. In addition, leaving the berries to dry out at the surface invites problems such as spoilage yeasts. So typically you either push the berries down into the juice manually (that's a punch-down) or you pump the juice out from the bottom of the tank and spray it on the cap (that's a pump-over). But both have the potential to extract more of the harsher tannins than you might want: punch-downs because you're physically crushing the skins with each punch, and pump-overs because the pump's machinery ends up grinding up seeds that may have fallen to the bottom of the tank. The pulse-air, on the other hand, uses an air compressor and a long wand to release bubbles of air in the fermenting liquid. As that bubble escapes to the surface, it splashes apart the cap. This typically results in a gentler extraction. You can see the pulse-air in action below on one of our 1500-gallon wooden upright tanks, wielded by harvest intern Rachel:

Pulsair
In the vineyard, things have progressed rapidly, and everywhere you turn there is a jewel-like cluster of grapes, hanging enticingly. I particularly like the white clusters at this stage, as they pick up their first hint of honeyed tones. These Bourboulenc clusters should come in sometime in the next week or two:

Bourboulenc cluster Sept 2024

At the same time, there are still clusters that are a long way from being ready to harvest. And that's just fine; we don't expect to bring in the last fruit until the end of October. This Grenache cluster is still going through the final stages of veraison:

Grenache cluster still mid-veraison

I've been enjoying trying to come up with new perspectives on the ever-changing vineyard. One of my favorites has been to get underneath the vines and use a wide-angle to try to get the hanging clusters, the canopy, and the horizon line. Below you can see the results with Grenache (left) and Bourboulenc (right):

View from below Grenache View from below Bourboulenc

This week's cool-down hasn't meant that we've stopped harvesting. If you look at the harvest chalkboard above you'll see that we brought in nine different lots already this week. But it does take the pressure off. We were able to take yesterday and get our presses a much-needed servicing. We used some down time on Tuesday to get our recently-arrive 600-gallon foudres stacked and settled in our white room. We didn't harvest either weekend day last weekend. And we've been able to get the cellar team home by 4pm the past few days. That may not seem like much, but a week like last week meant 60 work hours for much of the team. Having a mellower week to recharge everyone's batteries is most welcome. 

Similarly, the cooler weather gives the grapevines a chance to recuperate and gather energy for their next push. The weather looks like it will warm up next week, not to any noteworthy level, but back into the 90s. Then things will get back on track.

One thing I'm going to be keeping my eyes on is yields. We're starting to get signals, mostly from our Patelin growers, that certain varieties are coming in much lighter than people expected. This seems to be particularly true with whites, although given that whites are mostly ready before reds, it's possible we'll see that reds will end up lower too. On our own property, it seems like Syrah, Grenache, and Grenache Blanc have pretty healthy yields out there. Viognier and Vermentino definitely look light. Roussanne, Counoise, and Mourvedre seem average to a bit below. But given that we haven't finished picking anything off our estate yet, it's hard to have the full picture. But I think we can conclude that our hopes of a truly plentiful vintage aren't going to come to pass. Look for more details in our next harvest update.

Meanwhile, I'm going to leave you with one more photo, taken by Vineyard Manager Jordy Lonborg at 4am yesterday. That's the nearly-full moon behind some high clouds, with the stacks of empty picking bins in the foreground. I'm not sure I can remember a more atmospheric harvest photo. There are moments of beauty every day out here. At this time of year, most nights, too.

Moon behind clouds over bins


Roussanne's 2024 Comeback Tour

If you’re a fan of our Roussanne, we’re sure you’ve noticed it’s been in short supply. Last decade we were regularly making between 500 and 1000 cases of our varietal Roussanne while also using it as the lead grape in our Esprit de Tablas Blanc and a supporting player in the Cotes de Tablas Blanc. That was possible because between 2010 and 2020 we harvested an average of 41 tons of Roussanne.

Since 2021, the story has changed. We pulled out a block that was under-performing that summer, but thought we’d be OK because we’d grafted about an acre of Roussanne to established rootstocks on Jewel Ridge the year before. In addition, we planted additional acreage on Jewel Ridge and new acreage on Cote Maduena to replace it. Unfortunately, our timing was bad. The three-year drought that began in 2020 had reached critical levels by 2021, and spring frosts that hit us in 2022 pummeled our largest remaining block of Roussanne and set back the new vines we had planted. Roussanne production, which had declined to 28.1 tons in 2021, cratered to just 10.5 tons in 2022. We weren’t able to make a varietal Roussanne at all, and using every drop of the Roussanne we did harvest in our Esprit Blanc only resulted in an Esprit Blanc with 33% Roussanne, our lowest total ever.

Thankfully, the Roussanne that we harvested those years was exceptional, and the wines that we did make are some of our favorites. If you missed this week’s Instagram Live focusing on the release of the 2022 Esprit and 2022 Esprit Blanc, Neil, Chelsea, and I were all wowed by the intensity and purity of the Roussanne character in the Esprit Blanc.

Roussanne production bounced back somewhat in 2023, but less than we’d hoped as the frost damage from the year before proved serious enough that it impacted crop levels the next year. We harvested just 26.2 tons of Roussanne, but on a positive note, that included the first Roussanne from our Jewel Ridge plantings from the 2020 grafts. Although it only came to 1.23 tons it was remarkable. In total, we were able to increase the Roussanne percentage in the 2023 Esprit Blanc and will be bottling a small (260 case) varietal Roussanne in December.

Fast-forward to 2024. One of the grapes we’re most excited about in the vineyard is Roussanne. It’s a low-vigor vine in general, and often by this point in September, the vines can look pretty ragged. This year, they’re looking full of life. This is particularly evident on Jewel Ridge, where the young head-trained, wide-spaced vines are so bushy that Neil described them today as an "octopus". You can see from the below photo what he means:

Jewel Ridge Octopus vine 1

Below those enormous canopies, Roussanne clusters are sheltered from the direct sun:

Under a Jewel Ridge Roussanne vine

We’ve already harvested our first pick off of Jewel Ridge and at 1.45 tons are already above last year’s total with roughly two-thirds of the block still to go. The fact that this Roussanne is coming in so much earlier than we're accustomed to it ripening here is a great indicator of the health of this block. That wine is currently sitting in barrel in our cellar:

Jewel Ridge Roussanne in barrel

It's not only the Jewel Ridge Roussanne that is looking better this year. Even our older blocks are looking vigorous, at least by Roussanne standards. The block that we call "New Hill", where I photographed this vine (left) and two of the clusters on it (right) was planted in 1999, so this is 25-year-old Roussanne, looking good:

NH Roussanne vine looking healthy

Roussanne clusters on NH looking healthy

And there’s more good news for Roussanne on the horizon:

Roussanne, while susceptible to drought, seems to respond well to rainy years. With the 80” of rain we received between the last two winters, and another year separated from the ferocious frost event of 2022, Roussanne seems recovered and ready to put maximum effort into its fruit this year.

The 7 acres of Roussanne we planted between Jewel Ridge and Cotes Maduena in 2021 will reach their 3rd leaf this year, and while we’re not going to let them hang too much crop, we’ll get some, and will get more for sure in future years.

We planted another 5 acres last summer, so additional reinforcements are on their way.

New plantings on Jewel Ridge

Roussanne, our most important white variety, seems to be on its comeback tour.


Remembering John Munch: A Paso Robles Legend

By Chelsea Franchi

On Saturday, August 17th, some 300 friends, family, and members of the Paso Robles wine community gathered to celebrate the life of John Munch. The gathering included people from the many diverse interests that John pursued, from food and wine to music to motorcycle riding and woodworking.

The thriving Paso Robles wine community of today owes its pioneering spirit to that of its founders. As is the case with so many beloved and dynamic wine areas, Paso is a region founded by renegades and dreamers. We are fortunate that so many, from Gary Eberle to Ken Volk to Niels and Bimmer Udsen, are still a part of that fabric. We at Tablas Creek are humbled and honored to call these renegades and dreamers our mentors and peers. And perhaps no one in that founding group was as creative and unconventional a dreamer as John Munch.

John became a winemaker, as he told it, by accident: agreeing to help friends from France make sparkling wines at the old Estrella River Winery, where Gary Eberle was head Winemaker. From there he became a founding partner and winemaker at Adelaida Cellars in 1981, making Adelaida one of the first ten wineries in the region. Less than a decade later, while still running Adelaida, he launched his own small winery, Le Cuvier, on his Adelaida Road property just a few miles west of Paso Robles. But even while he was winemaker at Adelaida, John was a person who always had a few irons in the fire; in the mid-1980s he had already planted Syrah on his own property, and according to lore, a barrel tasting that the Perrins and Robert Haas had of the 1988 vintage of that Syrah was influential in their decision to search the west side of Paso Robles for the property that would become Tablas Creek.

His connection to Tablas Creek was important in other ways. In 1991, John gave our very own Neil Collins his first winemaking opportunity. Neil tells the story of the day he rolled up to his interview in a 1965 Volvo held together by baling wire and duct tape. John apparently took one look at Neil’s vehicle and concluded that if he could keep that thing running, he could certainly keep a winery running. Neil got the job that would change the trajectory of his life and the lives of countless others; the ripple effect of mentorship in a tight community like Paso Robles creates far-reaching and indelible changes. 

Neil and John End of DaySome things never change: to this day, a cold beer and good conversation remain the gold standard after a hard day's work

While Neil and John were working (and likely getting into plenty of tomfoolery) together at Adelaida, Tablas Creek was making forward progress. Bob Haas and the Perrins had purchased land, and vines imported from the nursery that supplied Beaucastel passed quarantine at Cornell University. While those vines were being propagated in our nursery, the partners selected a handful of Rhone varieties available in the US from trusted sources to plant and get some grapegrowing and winemaking experience. Today, we use the acronyms AV and VF to differentiate between “American Vines” and “Vignes Française” (French Vines). The American vines, planted in 1992, bore fruit starting in 1994, and Bob and the Perrins reached out John to rent space at Adelaida Cellars for an interim home to make their first vintages. The partners would fly out for harvest, and there are amazing photos from this era of Bob Haas and Jean-Pierre Perrin sitting on tanks, holding hoses, driving forklifts and operating pumps, like the one below. But they would have admitted, even then, that most of the hands-on winemaking was done by John and by Neil. And in 1997, when we finally built our winery, it was with John’s encouragement that Neil reached out to Bob and started the conversation which ended up with Neil as Tablas Creek’s winemaker, which he is to this day. Given that John mentored Neil and Neil has mentored me, I owe a personal debt of gratitude to John Munch.

Jean Pierre Topping BarrelsJean Pierre Perrin topping Tablas Creek barrels

Those first few vintages of wine from Tablas Creek grapes, made at Adelaida Cellars, were bottled under various labels including Adelaida Hills, Vineyard Drive, and Tablas Hills. In advance of John’s celebration of life, we pulled some of the original bottles he had helped craft, with the goal of picking one to provide to his celebration of life. My notes on the three wines we tasted, which were amazingly vibrant given they were all nearly 30 years old and made from third- and fourth-leaf grapevines:

1994 Adelaida Hills Assemblage Rouge
On the nose, tobacco leaf, forest floor, iodine, anise, blackberry and pomegranate. The palate is pleasantly minty and herby with dried flowers and undertones of blue fruit with cloves. The wine carries a cool dustiness with vibrant acidity but there’s a slight oxidative note on the finish. Very chewy.

1995 Vineyard Drive Red Table Wine
The nose opens with dried rose petals, stewed plum and meat drippings. The palate is dense and meaty, with iron and flint notes softened by wild strawberry and mint.  The tannins feel velvety and plush, but still carry enough of a grit to hold tight. This wine is beautiful and still going strong. 

1995 Tablas Hills Cuvee Rouge
A lovely meaty character on the nose, accompanied by lilacs, rib eye steaks, cola and clove. On the palate, cranberry and plum skin are tempered by a white pepper and black licorice spiciness. The finish seems to tumble forth and stretch forever, adding raspberry and bramble with thyme sprig. Good acids, grippy tannins, powerful. This was the wine we chose to share at the memorial.

Early Vintages of Tablas CreekThe three wines we tasted

I asked Neil to tell me a little bit about the John Munch he knew, since the two of them had been close friends since that fateful interview in 1991. Neil described John as fearless, innovative, and hilarious. He said John was never one to gloat despite the fact that he was a brilliant musician, an incredible writer, and a great speaker. All of us who knew him remember John fondly as being an animated and passionate human with a deep well of knowledge and ability.

Neil and John Wine TastingNei and John at Hospice du RhoneNeil (left) and John (right) at tastings through the years

I think John would have been delighted to taste the wines he helped Tablas Creek create. Thirty years later, they are beautiful and strong with just enough wildness to them. Cheers, John. Thank you for helping to pave the way for the next generations of renegades and dreamers of Paso Robles and beyond.

Jesters in MustardWhen co-workers are friends, the line between work and play becomes blurred.  Or in this case, completely non-existent


Harvest 2024 begins under ideal conditions as moderate temperatures return

At around 5am today, we kicked off the 2024 harvest with six bins of Viognier from the top of our tallest hill. Conditions were perfect; it was in the low 50s, which meant that the fruit got into the cellar chilly. As we were finishing up, the sun started to rise over the eastern hills:

Opening Viognier pick - sunrise

As we’d expected, this was neither a particularly early beginning harvest (like 2022, when we started on August 17th) nor was it a late start (like 2023, when we didn’t bring in estate fruit until September 14th). That’s not surprising given that the first half of the summer was quite cool, though not as cool as 2023, while for six weeks starting early July it’s been hot. Now it looks like we’ve settled into an ideal pattern. Check out the temperatures compared to average (and compared to the previous six weeks) since August 12th:

Temperatures 2024 vs Average July and August

The first pick is always a milestone, with the cellar team joining the vineyard crew out in the field. The crew, many of whom have been here for decades, always get a kick out of this. David Maduena, our long-time Vineyard Manager (pictured below at the back of the bin trailer) is starting his 31st harvest here.

Opening Viognier pick - checking bins

In the cellar, we’ve been spending the last few weeks washing everything and checking that all our equipment is working properly. It’s all so empty that it feels like we’re working in a new facility. It won’t feel like that for long.

Opening Viognier pick - in the press

The team has already done a bunch of sampling today, and we expect some reds in tomorrow. Nothing off the estate yet (and maybe not for a week or two) but we should get the Pinot Noir from our place in the Templeton Gap and some Syrah for Patelin de Tablas. We’re thinking that yields are likely to be similar to last year, maybe a little better in grapes like Roussanne and Syrah. We’ll know more, obviously, in a few weeks. 

Sample log August 26th

One thing that is clear is that we're looking at a harvest that seems more like a marathon than a sprint. There isn't any major heat in the forecast, with a minor warm-up this week (highs likely topping out in the low-to-mid-90s) followed by a weak low pressure system likely cooling things down so that our highs will be in the mid-80s. All of the red grapes on the estate, with the exception of some of the hilltop blocks of Syrah, are still in the middle of veraison. In some blocks it’s barely started. These photos of Grenache (left) and Counoise (right) were taken late last week.

Grenache late August

Counoise late August

All this is normal, and good. Ripening conditions appear ideal. The vines look healthy. An extended harvest always allows us more time to sample and to make better use of our tanks. It’s always good to ease into harvest rather than have it start like an avalanche. We’ll have lots more to share with you soon. Stay tuned.


Veraison 2024 suggests an early-September kickoff to harvest... then a break… then a mid-September kickoff to harvest

By Ian Consoli

Veraison, if you're unfamiliar with the term, is a physiological stage of grape development where the berries stop accumulating mass and start accumulating sugar. More visibly, red grapes start their color change from green, while white grapes take on more of a yellow tint. Both red and white grapes start to soften. The onset of veraison comes roughly six weeks before the beginning of harvest, and gives us our best estimate for what sort of schedule we're likely looking at. And it's lovely. Witness this massive Grenache cluster, from the dry-farmed section of our Crosshairs block. At roughly 10" in diameter, it showcases the vigor we're seeing in our dry-farmed blocks specifically. It's a sight to behold:

Dry-farmed Grenach cluster at 10 inch diameter

The story of this year's veraison is its irregularity. We attribute this irregularity, in part, to an early budbreak for Syrah, Viognier, and some Grenache blocks that was followed by a cool down at the end of March and start of April, culminating in a frost event on April 6th. That cold spell forced soil temperatures down and kept the other varieties in dormancy. Between that and the series of heatwaves pushing temperatures over 100˚F (the threshold at which vines shut down for the day), we're expecting a somewhat staggered start to #harvest2024. With that observation in mind, the weather is at an optimal temperature pattern right now, and things are moving fast. I thought I'd take a quick romp through all the different red Rhone varieties to give you a sense of where each stands. At the end, I've included a chart with how this year compares to other recent years and made some predictions about when we're likely to start picking.

We spotted our first color in the vineyard in Syrah on July 23rd. Now, a little more than two weeks later, every variety is showing at least the first stages of color change, and the early grapes are mostly red. I'll start with Syrah, as usual the first Rhone red to enter version and the fastest to change colors, and go roughly from most-veraison to least. The cluster here is a bit ahead of the average in the vineyard, and I'd estimate that we're probably around 80% through veraison in Syrah overall:

Veraison 2024 - Syrah on crosshairs


Next is probably Muscardin. It came in second last year and we were unsure whether it was unusual or not, since it is our newest arrival and we don't have many years of history. As we're getting to know it better, it does seem to go through veraison on the early side. It's not as dark red as Syrah (nor will it be at harvest) but overall it looks like it's about 60% of the way through:

Veraison 2024 - Muscardin

Grenache is next in line, at roughly 40% veraison overall. It's always a particularly pretty grape to watch change color, with the berries turning jewel-like in the sun. Look for lots more Grenache pictures in the next month:

Veraison 2024 - Grenache

Next is Mourvedre. Mourvedre is an unusual grape in that it can start going through veraison on the early side, but is one of the last to be picked. This characteristic long-ripening period means it just takes longer than the others do in this stage. These clusters are fairly typical, and I'd estimate it is 30-40% through veraison overall:

Veraison 2024 - Mourvedre
Counoise is the next one up. It is relatively impossible to find clusters with color at the lower parts of the Counoise block, with clusters similar to the one below about mid-way up. The clusters at the top of the block have a bit more color, putting our estimate around 20% veraison overall. Note the characteristic large berries still have some growing to do:

Veraison 2024 - Counoise

Veraison in the last three Rhone varieties we grow are just getting started or nearly non-existent.

Cinsaut is surprising because it's not typically a late ripener, and the literature says it ripens pretty much in sync with Grenache. But the cluster below was one of just a few with any color at all. Maybe 5% veraison overall:

Veraison 2024 - Cinsaut

Terret Noir took some searching to find any color. This cluster, with a few pink-purple berries in a sea of green, is about as advanced as it gets. I'd estimate we're around 2-3% on Terret overall:

Veraison 2024 - Terret Noir

Vaccarese simply had no color at all. I searched through the entire block (which isn't difficult, given it's only eight rows) and couldn't find a single berry with color. Vaccarese tends to be one of the latest varieties to reach veraison every year.

Veraison 2024 - Vaccarèse

Although it's less visually exciting than with reds, white grapes also go through veraison. The grapes turn from green to something a little yellower and soften and start to get sweet. They also become more translucent. The process happens over a continuum as it does in the reds. Viognier goes first, followed by Vermentino, Marsanne, and Grenache Blanc, with Picpoul and Roussanne bringing up the rear. You can see the slight translucency that the berries of Grenache Blanc (left) and Vermentino (right) are starting to pick up:

Veraison 2024 - Grenache Blanc and Vermentino

While the veraison posts you're likely seeing from your favorite wineries may make it seem like veraison is a moment, like Christmas, it's probably better understood as a continuum, like winter, and first veraison is like first frost, or first snowfall. It will likely be a week until all the Syrah clusters at Tablas are red, and 3-4 weeks until the last clusters of later grapes like Mourvedre and Counoise have finished coloring up.

While six weeks is a good basic guide for the duration between the onset of veraison and the beginning of harvest, it's not totally constant and will be influenced by the weather that we get in the interim, as well as by the amount of fruit the vines are carrying and the inherent tendencies of the different varieties. For example, a consistently cool summer and a plentiful crop in 2010 gave us a full seven weeks between veraison and our first harvest, while 2021's consistent heat and low yields gave us just a five-week interim. Each vintage since 2010 is compiled in the chart below, with each year linked to Jason's blog post about that year's version:

 

Year      First Veraison Noted Estate Harvest Begins # of Days
2010 July 30 September 16 49
2011 August 5               September 20     47
2012 July 25          September 5 42
2013 July 17    August 26             40
2014 July 9      August 23             45
2015 July 18    August 26             39
2016 July 13    August 18             36
2017 July 20    August 30             41
2018 July 29    September 10     43
2019 July 30    September 4       36
2020 July 21    August 25             35
2021 July 21    August 24             34
2022 July 12    August 17             36
2023 August 7  September 14   38
2024 July 24 ?    ?

Using the range of durations between first veraison and first harvest (34 to 49 days), we can try to predict when we might begin harvest in this irregular year. Those raw numbers suggest that we’ll start sometime between August 27th and September 12th, which seems safe enough but also a wide range. Vineyard Manager Jordan Lonborg sees us beginning harvest on the first week of September for grapes that bloomed before the cool down, like Viognier and Syrah. Then, we'll likely have two slow weeks before the real push of harvest begins. The weather between now and then will determine where in the range we'll fall, influenced as well by the crop levels, since lighter crops ripen faster than heavier ones.

Overall, we're seeing crop levels similar to last year, with exciting standouts in much-needed white varieties like Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, Marsanne, and Bourboulenc. It is interesting because, even with all the rain we received the last two winters, we see relatively small berries, but large cluster sizes make up for it. That may be due to the hot summer. We averaged highs of 98.5˚F in July and 99.3˚F so far in August. Heat is good until temperatures exceed 100˚F and the vines shut down for the day. Those periodic shutdowns can result in uneven ripening. As we push to the second half of August, we're in a perfect heat pattern in the mid-90's, and everything should proceed as scheduled if this pattern continues.

What's next for the vineyard? We'll watch the different grapes go through veraison. That progress is already happening fast, and the view in the vineyard is changing daily. We'll be posting regular photos of veraison's progress on our Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram pages. In a few weeks, we'll start sampling the early varieties, looking for the moment when the flavors are fully developed and the balance of sugars and acids is ideal. In the cellar, we've already started to get ready by finishing our blending of the 2023s and pulling out and checking on all the tanks and equipment we'll need once harvest begins. It's likely too that we'll see some grapes from Patelin or Lignée vineyards, and from the Haas Vineyard Pinot Noir, before anything comes off our estate. Those grapes should start coming in a couple of weeks.

So, now we wait and enjoy the show. We have an idea of how much time is on our timer, and we know Mother Nature has pushed “start”.


AI and Wine Marketing – A Current Assessment

By Josh Kaiser

Exploring AI's Role in Wine Marketing

In today's world, artificial intelligence (AI) is no longer a distant concept that’s associated only with science fiction; it has seamlessly become a part of our everyday lives, whether we realize it or not. From voice-activated assistants like Alexa and Siri to personalized recommendations on Netflix and Spotify or Grammarly helping edit this blog for grammatical errors, AI is everywhere, doing its best to make our lives more convenient and tailored to our preferences while providing moments of unintentional comedy as we realize the limits of the technology. Marketing is one area that has seen a boom in the use of AI recently, with marketers looking to leverage the tool to streamline their processes and make their content more personalized. With its rise in popularity, I’ve been studying the many uses of AI in business during my time at Cal Lutheran University as well as my previous internship before Tablas Creek. When I arrived at Tablas for my summer marketing internship, Ian (our Director of Marketing) suggested we dive into AI’s potential uses at a winery like Tablas Creek to better understand its capabilities, figure out its shortcomings as well as strengths, and decide if we think AI might be a viable tool in wine marketing.

We thought this info might be useful or interesting to our readers as well.

Gemini_Generated_Image_n3zfrfn3zfrfn3zfImage generated by Gemini AI using prompt: "Please tell me what AI software looks like in an image."

State of AI Today

Artificial Intelligence is a field of software engineering concerned with building computers and machines that can reason, learn, and act in a way similar to how a human can, using its access to a vast information database. AI has seen a major rise in popularity over the last several years, and the many uses for AI software have fueled a tech boom over the past few years. From risk assessment in finance, to streaming service algorithms and online shopping recommendations, to more personal uses like designing diets and workout plans, there are thousands of AI programs for just about any need you can think of.

Uses for AI in Marketing

Based on my previous experience with AI systems, I was aware of how easily one can get overwhelmed by the number of options there are out there. To stay focused we took into account all the potential uses we were interested in, and narrowed it down to three main categories of features that seem to be in the broadest use:

  • Generating written content such as social media captions, website information, emails, or blog posts. We found AI can generate copy of varying length for all these different channels quickly and easily. Whether you need a catchy Instagram caption or multiple email drafts, you simply instruct the AI software on what you want (for instance, an Instagram caption detailing different Rhone grape varieties) and poof! In seconds, the software scans its vast database and uses its knowledge about Instagram post captions and grapes from the Rhone Valley to generate text that is formatted like a caption and should fit the parameters set. That’s the plus side. There are two negatives, neither insignificant. First, there are still real issues with the reliability of the information generated, especially when working with more obscure topics like unusual grape varieties or topics where information in one part of the world may or may not have relevance in another, such as viticulture or weather phenomena. Quite often, the information generated by the AI was factually incorrect or interpreted in a way that wasn’t quite right. That means that every result has to be checked and cannot be used directly from the software. The second negative was that the language was often full of adjectives and adverbs: flowery and sometimes overdone. There’s a classic bit of writing advice that is “show, don’t tell”. The AI output always skewed toward the “tell” side.
  • Generating photos. There are now programs that allow you to input any text and it will generate an image of what you input. While this was pretty impressive, the accuracy was certainly not perfect, and the systems often generate random additions to the photo on top of what you asked for. Think of the photos that circulate online where upon closer investigation people have extra fingers, or the lighting is inconsistent from element to element. One use we were hoping for was to find AI software that would allow us to edit text on an image while keeping the same font – think updating the vintage on a bottle in a lifestyle shot -- but we never got an image that we found convincing. AI still struggles with adding or editing text on images.
  • We found that many marketers are using AI to assist in brainstorming ideas for all sorts of different content. A big part of marketing is trying to stay on top of trends and come up with fresh ideas to engage with your audience, and AI should theoretically be a great help in both of those. Instead of the marketing team scrolling through hours of social media posts and websites to try and discover new trends, AI can generate trending topics, hashtags, headlines, keywords, and even titles of trending music for things like Instagram Reels in mere seconds. This can be useful, although a critical aspect is ensuring the system has real time data. Some AI engines do not have up to date databases, for instance before the update in September of 2023 ChatGPT only had data up to 2021, two years behind. Meaning the “trending” ideas it generated would be what was trending in 2021, not current day. Real time data is becoming more and more common, so you probably don’t need to worry too much, but it’s definitely something to be aware of.

Concerns with AI

As with any new technology there are a few concerns that anyone experimenting with AI should be aware of.

  • Probably the biggest issue with AI as of now is the information that the programs generate is not yet reliable enough to trust. It’s still necessary to carefully read and make edits to all the content an AI engine puts out. This is exacerbated in an age where misinformation on the Internet is all too common.
  • Many systems also do not have data that is current and up to date. While this might not matter for rephrasing text or brainstorming ideas, it can be an important drawback when you’re looking to share information on new research or topics on which there is relatively little data available online.
  • The content generated can sound robotic and not flow well, or just have a tone that feels inappropriate to your business. There are now things that can be done to train the AI in a tone or voice to try and avoid this (by giving the software content from a website, social captions, blog posts, etc. you can “teach” the AI your tone and how you write), but it is difficult to fully teach the system a voice, and there will often still be times that it does not come out the way you envisioned.
  • Photo generation and editing is still lagging. Sure, AI can turn a text prompt into a photo quickly, but the accuracy was lacking. When generating photos there would always be a few details off, or a few unwanted additions. We hoped to find a program that easily edits text on images, like changing the vintage or the percentages of the grapes in on a wine label in a photograph. This could save needing to retaking photos each bottling. However, we found AI struggles greatly when trying to edit small details of text on images, and in general the photo sector of AI has a long way to go (the picture below illustrates one example of an attempt to change the vintage, as well as blend percentages on an Esprit de Tablas. The system tried to match the font and the size, but as you can see it was not very successful). In fact, strangely-rendered text is one of the surest tells on an AI-generated image at the moment. That said, now that apps like Photoshop and Illustrator are adding AI capabilities, I have no doubt the photo sector of AI will advance rapidly.

Ai comparison photosBottleshot adjustment attempted using Canva AI

Pricing

In AI, as in much of life, you get what you pay for. Although the free versions of AI software like Chat GPT get a lot of the press, we found that they are often quite limited. These tools can handle simple tasks such as rewording sentences or generating synonyms quickly. There are also paid platforms such as JasperAI (starting at $40/month per account) or HypotenuseAI (starting at $56/month) which offer more advanced features including generating images or creating automated email workflows. In general, the paid platforms offer:

  • A free version or free trial with minimal capabilities and limited trial periods aimed at enticing users to upgrade
  • A basic tier, ranging from $10 to $50 per month, suitable for individuals or small teams interested in a few basic tools, with additional capabilities
  • A premium tier around $60 to $80 per month, offering more accounts, more features, and increased personalization.
  • Some platforms also provide more flexible “business” plans, that advertise “custom” or “flexible” pricing. These are targeted towards larger teams who are ready to heavily invest in AI, and likely offer more robust and personalized capabilities. But these were expensive enough that we didn’t try them out.

One challenge (or opportunity, depending on your perspective) is that at this stage of AI’s life there are a dizzying range of engines to choose from. Do enough digging that you find a software that fits what your needs may be. Then plan to put in the time to train that software to your liking. And expect that in order to access the latest technology, data, and optimal user interface, you’ll likely have to go beyond a free engine or the free introductory version of the platform you choose.

Key Takeaways

AI's ability to streamline tasks and personalize experiences is undeniable, however, as our exploration has shown, there are also notable challenges and limitations, particularly regarding the accuracy and reliability of AI-generated content.

Despite these hurdles, the potential of AI is vast, and its continuous evolution promises even greater capabilities in the future. For now, it's important to approach AI with a balanced perspective, leveraging its strengths while remaining vigilant about its shortcomings. Ultimately, AI is a tool that, when used thoughtfully and judiciously, is already capable of enhancing marketing efforts and providing value to our, or your, audience. But thankfully (as a marketing professional) it seems like it’s going to be a while before it can step in and do our job for us, particularly at a place like Tablas Creek where we value the human touch and authenticity of real experience. If we can use AI to enhance bringing that experience to you, we will. But the journey with AI is just beginning, and we look forward to navigating it together!

Artificial InternArtificial Intern image created by DeepAI using prompt: "Make the person in the image look like a robot"