How (and Why) to Decant a Wine
January 08, 2012
One question we get fairly often is whether to decant one of our wines. My typical answer is that most of our wines will benefit from some air when young, though it's more important for some wines than others. And a few of our older red wines have started to show some sediment. Decanting these wines is highly recommended, as even if you stand a bottle up in advance, pouring the wine around the table will re-mix any sediment. We've started marking on our online vintage chart wines that particularly benefit from decanting.
The examples above illustrate the two different sorts of wines that you might want to decant. The first is what I'm usually asked about: young wines whose powerful structure can be softened, and whose subtler aromatic elements encouraged, by some exposure to air. It's not actually that important how you decant this sort of wine. Often, the more the wine splashes around, the better. But for the second sort of wine -- an older red wine which has accumulated some sediment over time and which you'd like to be able to enjoy without having to strain it through your teeth -- technique is important.
Over the holidays, the Haas clan gathered in Vermont, and we enjoyed many wonderful wines. Perhaps the highlight was a magnum of the 1989 Hommage a Jacques Perrin that we drank on New Year's Day with a dinner of truffled roast chicken and a gratin of potato and fennel. The wine was rich and luxurious, powerful with dark red fruit, licorice, and earth. It was still quite youthful, but had already accumulated significant sediment. We'd have decanted it even if it were a 750ml bottle, but as magnums are awkward to pour at the table due to their heft, decanting the bottle into two 750ml decanters made the logistics of serving the wine easier. Robert Haas demonstrates how it was done, step by step. My sister Rebecca took most of the photos; you can see more of her great photography on her blog Campestral. The scene, with the bottle having been stood upright two days before:
To start the process, remove the capsule completely so you can see through the neck of the bottle, and light a candle (a small flashlight works, too, but is less focused and less romantic) to shine through the neck so you can tell when the wine flow starts to include sediment:
Then, pull the cork:
Pour out the bottle carefully and gradually, in one smooth motion, with the goal of creating as little turbulence as possible. The beginning, with the first decanter partly full and the second decanter at the ready:
Pouring slower now, part way through the second decanter:
If you've poured smoothly enough, the sediment should have collected in the shoulder of the bottle, and you can pour out almost all the liquid without getting any grit. You can actually see the sediment still in the bottle:
We put the bottle on the table so it could enjoy the dinner too, and so we could read the label if we had any questions: